He did not go skipping and prancing, but moved with a dignified swagger, as became a pirate who felt that the public eye was on him. And indeed it was; he tried not to seem to see the looks or hear the remarks as he passed along, but they were food and drink to him. - The Adventures of Tom Sawyer
Recently, the Cleveland culinary community was raising its collective glass to chef Jonathon Sawyer and the entire Greenhouse Tavern team. Sawyer was named one of the 10 best new chefs in the country by Food & Wine Magazine. It is an enormous honor for any young chef. It is well-earned recognition for not only Sawyer's forward-thinking model of restaurant ownership, but also his masterful work in the kitchen.
I first interviewed Sawyer in October 2007 for that November's issue of Northern Ohio Live. We chatted in the space that would later become Bar Cento, and it was immediately evident that he could talk the talk. He was personable, without pretense, and brimming with enthusiasm, having returned home to Cleveland after living in New York, ready to open his first restaurant. He was to transform a dull space into a lively boîte that introduced Northeast Ohioans to his unwavering devotion to local, seasonal products. It was a smash, quickly earning Sawyer legions of fans, with dishes that seamlessly united traditional techniques and preparations with local tastes and local ingredients.
Less than a year later, in August 2008, I put Sawyer on the cover of Northern Ohio Live as part of a feature that highlighted restaurateurs who were helping to shape neighborhoods with their projects. Sawyer's Greenhouse Tavern project was the most ambitious and stood to have the greatest impact in terms of influence. Sawyer's vision represented much more than opening a new restaurant on an up-and-coming street in a long languishing building. The chef and his team pulled up their green sleeves and set about constructing a working model of sustainable restaurant stewardship. I remember walking through the then empty Corts building, carefully climbing up a small chute, negotiating through a hatch door and onto the unfinished roof. I thought Sawyer was a bit off his rocker, too much caffeine, but he really wanted to show me the roof. I'm glad he did. That image became the cover.
It's as if Sawyer took one of his favorite tomes, Fergus Henderson's The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, and applied it to his entire restaurant: Nothing would be wasted - and nothing has been. The Tavern became Ohio's first certified green restaurant, and the chef's conscientiously edited menus and consistently quality dishes have put him in the national culinary spotlight. He can talk the talk, and walk the walk. He's following in some big footsteps.
In 1998, Michael Symon was named among the best new chefs by Food & Wine. We all know the great success that he's had since then. However, what about the people who don't know?
My aunt and cousin recently visited from Ireland, and were taken to Lolita for dinner. Having never heard of Michael Symon, or knowing what the hell an "Iron Chef " is, they enjoyed themselves. This is key. "Celebrity chef" only means something when you know who it is. Otherwise, it comes down to the dining experience, as it does for numerous endlessly talented chefs working in Northeast Ohio. No bias, no star lust – was it a good dining experience or not?
My relatives loved the energetic atmosphere of Lolita on a Friday night, the dim lighting, the raucous music, the bustle of the bar crowd. They applauded the impeccable service, which was entirely without misstep, saving an extra side of fried Brussels sprouts, which was gladly accepted. The latter won rave reviews, as did the roasted bone marrow, roasted dates, roasted shrimp and the duck prosciutto pizza. The use of local ingredients was of interest. There was nary a complaint when the entrées arrived, with ample cooing over presentations and much savoring. It was delicious, reasonably priced and, most important, fun. My relatives returned to Ireland the next day, and I think it's safe to say they left with a lot of good tastes in their mouths. It was a perfect parting gift, illustrating how vibrant Cleveland really is.
Sawyer's national nods, most recently from Food & Wine, also illustrate to the world how vibrant Cleveland is. They give a hearty pat on the back to the man who viewed Cleveland as the place dreams are made, the man who invested all his energies to make our community a better place. No matter how famous Sawyer becomes, I'm certain that, much like Symon, the food – the reason both have stuck with the business – will remain paramount.
The F&W recognition also smiles in the face of a tired cliché. Truth is nice guys don't always finish last. Congrats, Jonathon.
[Photo by Amelia Zatik Sawyer]
