Doc Brown may have been on to something. Time travel is possible, though a DeLorean fitted with a flux capacitor and 1.21 gigawatts of energy are not necessary. Set coordinates approximately 50 miles east of Cleveland, fill the sedan with a few gallons of unleaded and maintain a reasonable highway speed on Interstate 90 traveling beyond Cuyahoga County. Upon reaching Geneva-on-the-Lake, continue to Eddie's Grill, where timetravel sequence will initiate, deliciously launching into the 1950s.
While Geneva and Geneva-on-the-Lake may be best known as home to Northeast Ohio's wine country, "The Strip" on Lake Road in Geneva-on-the-Lake is a delightfully anachronistic oasis of lakefront leisure. It's as if the place were lifted directly from the celluloid reels of American Graffiti. The street is teeming with character, dotted with noisy arcades, eclectic storefronts and a handful of longstanding dining options, including Madsen Donuts, opened in 1938. However, nothing quite captures the nostalgia like Eddie's Grill.
The Strip's tightly packed thoroughfare is always lively, with steady pedestrian, car and motorcycle traffic. At the center of it all is Eddie's. Located directly across the street from the eatery is a gravel parking lot, which saves time scavenging for a parking spot, and the $3 fee may be redeemed towards food at Eddie's. It's the best deal in town.
Eddie's facade is punctuated by scores of colored lightbulbs and a glowing neon that towers above the low-roofed, white structure, which, by all accounts, has changed very little since it first opened in 1950. The 50s diner aesthetic carries a half-century worth of patina and wears it well. It's the type of appeal that simply cannot be manufactured.
Here, the restaurant – not the menu – is seasonal. The indoor seating is cozy, with the atmosphere-appropriate, largely unforgiving booths. The walls are lined with colorful ephemera, including hand-painted directives, such as the refreshingly minimalist menu. Options include fried fish sandwiches, hot dogs, footlongs, sloppy joes, french fries, milk shakes and fountain drinks.
The buzzing kitchen is front and center, opening on to the street, luring passersby with the irresistible aroma of a highly seasoned grill, churning out a steady stream of cheeseburgers. The staff comprises mostly teens, who keep in character with decidedly pleasant demeanors, paper-hat wearing gents in the kitchen and young ladies clad in blue cardigans with a sewn-on Eddie's patch. Among the most coveted seats in the house are the half dozen bar stools in front of the kitchen, half outside and deliriously quaint. In back, a large outdoor eating space with colorful metal tables and wraparound orange benches provides more opportunities for fun and food in the sun.
Contrary to popular belief, there is nothing more American than cheeseburgers. While Eddie's version may lack the undue pomp and pricetag of more upscale establishments, it comes with a savory sentimentality other establishments lack. A soft sesame seed bun houses a thin, nicely charred beef patty, tightly affixed to the bun with an ample amount of gooey American cheese. Condiments are left to diners, with a well-stocked DIY station that offers diced onions, malt vinegar, horseradish sauce, Stadium Mustard, spicy brown mustard, ketchup, pickles, relish and more. A small order of crisp, pre-cut fries would easily feed two people, and a frosty root beer served in an Eddie's cup is the perfect beverage. Total for such a meal is less than $8 (or less than $5 with a parking stub). That's nostalgia everybody can appreciate.
This weekend is your last chance to enjoy Eddie's Grill before it closes for the season. It will be open Saturday, September 11 from 9 am to 11 pm; and Sunday, September 12 from 9 am - 9 pm.
