Is this the Golden Age of cocktails? At the Manhattan Cocktail Classic in New York City last month, that question was constantly on my mind. There were seminars and classes throughout the day, and later, hands-on experience at various cocktail churches around the city. Having tasted the distinct differences in various gins, studied the history of bourbon and rye, spending hours meticulously pairing various ingredients and their proportions, I paused, stood back, and asked myself: Where is all of this heading? With all of the new exotic ingredients, the huge rise of cocktail awareness, and so many new ideas in mixology, is this really the new “Golden Age of Cocktails?"
My answer is this: No. Not yet. Maybe - but probably not.
It started around 2004, when a small group of individual bartenders and bar owners really dug deep to study the true history and craft of cocktails. Perhaps they saw through flair bartending or tired of cheap, loud, one-dimensional drinks. Perhaps the environment of booze-fueled debauchery and endless television screens took its toll. Or perhaps they were just old enough to remember a time when cocktails were much more. From a cocktail lounge’s atmosphere, to the bartender’s smart red coat and black bow tie, to the stemware itself, there was a style and a grace involved. The cocktails themselves were comparatively complex by nature, however, they were made precisely and professionally. The cocktail was served with style, not prepared with flair.
This was a small movement that I was proud to be a part of from the ground floor. It was eventually noticed by various marketers in the industry. Now, it has become all the rage. Because of the higher cost of preparing true cocktails, the labor involved, and the lack of knowledge and/or skill by bartenders, it is already being dumbed down for the hoi polloi. The old adage of “better, faster or cheaper – pick two, because you can’t have all three” holds particularly true here.
Ersatz speakeasies, classic cocktail theme bars, cocktail laboratories and the like have popped up all over the country. Driven by commercialization, the same bars, the same bartenders who made you an apple martini six months ago now sport arm garters, pencil thin mustaches and feature “classic cocktails” that have little if any resemblance to what they try to emulate. It is all about cost, volume and speed, not quality and precision.
The next tier of bars and bartenders are what give me a glimmer of hope for a new “Golden Age”. They have raised their game, but more often than not, they have not really learned the basics of the cocktail, the balance and harmony of ingredients. Most important, how different brands and styles of the same liquors can shape, enhance or destroy a cocktail. These cocktail nerds will continue to learn more about cocktail culture, histories and formulas, and this is what gives me hope. In time, we may indeed see cocktails that will withstand the test of time.
Unfortunately, some see themselves as performance artists, the bottles behind them being their palette. They will bestow upon you a one of a kind creation, never to be prepared the same way again. This “cocktail” is then usually served with a good dose of pompous grandeur and a side of casual disdain. While the product may be good, maybe even very good, the hospitality factor is sadly missing. A real bartender has a great knowledge of all of his ingredients, and the skill to promote a convivial and social atmosphere. There are more than a few bartenders in the Cleveland area with these talents. I truly admire them. They are knowledgeable craftsmen and women who continue to hone their skills and polish their craft. Note the use of the term “craft”. Bartenders are just that – craftsmen. It is an honorable title. Those who fancy themselves artists, bar-tists, bar-chefs and the like will continue to do whatever it is that they call bartending, but is really self promotion, and providing one dimensional, unbalanced drinks.
Many of the cocktails being produced today are concoctions and riffs. A “Manhattan” made with 3 types of bitters, pumpkin spices and garnished with organic hibiscus flowers that have been sprinkled with wasabi is not a Manhattan at all. Many bars also claim to use “freshly squeezed” juices. This has rapidly become a grey area. There are “fresh” frozen concentrates that, while a step up from the ubiquitous sour mix, still contain preservatives and other artificial ingredients. I also see bottles of “freshly squeezed” juices behind the bar. I have to wonder just how fresh they are. Were they squeezed today? Yesterday? What kind of ice is being used? Standard “bar ice” that quickly dilutes a shaken cocktail or waters down a highball? Or is it that new gimmick of chopping pieces of ice off of a large block? Cute, but how do you consistently add the right amount of ice when it is all different sizes and shapes?
In my colorful cocktailing past, and recent past as well, I have tasted a number of cocktail delights. My personal preference for classic cocktails aside, there are so many new and excellent tools in a bartender's arsenal that new cocktail possibilities and flavor pairings are not only inevitable, but welcome. Before I get too far ahead of myself, allow me to point out some characteristics of the “classic” cocktail.
Usually steeped in history, a classic cocktail can tell a story. The old-school flavor of an Old Fashioned harkens back to the early days of the well-dressed cocktail. It is, after all, one of - if not the first - cocktails ever. Strong, smooth, spicy and using a minimum of ingredients, we see the primary spirit – bourbon, in this case - put on a pedestal. It is showcased and not disguised. That's the first premise: A classic cocktail’s primary spirit is the backbone of the drink itself. The other ingredients play a supporting role.
Next, a classic cocktail's flavor spectrum, be it broad or defined, should be multidimensional. A well-made martini exemplifies the steeliness of clear liquor. White vermouth will quietly enhance the botanicals in gin. In a vodka martini, the vermouth gives the primary spirit another dimension that is further enhanced by the saltiness of an olive. The headiness of a Manhattan is the other end of the spectrum. With its deep resonance of bourbon or rye, the sweet vermouth middle notes, and the spicy finish of bitters, a well-made Manhattan will wrap its warm blanket around you in the fall, and still be a refreshing, albeit powerful bracer on a summer's evening. A lively whiskey sour or a crisp and tart Tom Collins usher in a world of citrus flavors balanced by rye or tamed with herbs.
Craft cocktails parallel the growing consciousness people have with food. Food aficionados, not unlike the cocktail cognoscenti, take their palates seriously. They can be as well-versed in product as the person preparing them a cocktail in a lounge, or preparing their dinner in a chef-driven restaurant. As people embrace slow food, local ingredients and higher quality, they also appreciate craft cocktails that are made well. We are in an interesting place in cocktail culture. The bar has been raised. Cheers!
