It seems only fitting that as spring arrives in Northeast Ohio, my mind turns toward my favorite member of the lily family: asparagus.
Asparagus is an ancient vegetable. Its history starts in the eastern Mediterranean, but it is found around the world today. It was enjoyed in ancient Egypt and ancient Rome. During the Renaissance, Venice was a reputable source for asparagus and to this day, Venetians are known for dishes using the white variety of the plant (in a recipe that celebrates spring by combining two of Venice’s best-known foods, risotto and asparagus). The white variety is grown in the absence of sunlight, preventing the development of chlorophyll. Although a little milder in flavor than the green version, it can be used interchangeably in recipes.
Asparagus is a great nutritional food. Asparagus is a great source of fiber, vitamin B6, potassium, vitamin K and folate. It is also low in sodium and calories.
My Mom taught me to buy the fat asparagus in the market. This is the opposite of what most people will tell you. I asked her why she would recommend something that seemed to go against conventional wisdom. She didn’t take credit for the advice. She claims Jacques Pepin taught her this.
As the story goes, Pepin was in an American supermarket purchasing vegetables, having picked the store’s fattest asparagus, when an older woman stopped him. “Your wife will be very angry with you if you bring home those big things,” she said. “The thinner ones are younger and therefore more tender”. According to Pepin, the fatter ones are the mother plant and the thinner ones the off shoots, which never have as much flavor as the thick ones.
Having eaten the “fat” asparagus throughout my childhood, I can tell you the fatter ones are definitely more flavorful.
With Florida suffering from a harsh winter and Ohio asparagus not coming to market until May/June, current asparagus supplies are from California, according to Joe DeGaetano of Miles Market.
What to Look For
Look for fresh stalks when choosing your asparagus. Once asparagus is cut and packaged for sale, the bottoms of the stalks begin to dry out. They can turn hard and cracked. This dehydration can turn the bottom half of your asparagus woody. To slow down the drying out process, stand your asparagus upright in your fridge in 1 to 2 inches of cold water or wrap a damp paper towel around the bottom cut portion of the stalks. Just be careful not to cover the entire asparagus in moisture, just the bottoms.
Remove the rubber band from the bunch and see how firm the stalks are. As the asparagus age, they also lose their strength, and can bend and wilt. The fresher they are, the sturdier the top portion of the stalk. Often the rubber band will bind them together, so you can’t see if they are firm on their own.
Asparagus is at its best when used within two to three days of purchase, but can be frozen. To freeze asparagus, blanch them first. Drop asparagus stalks into a large pot of boiling water and allow them to remain in the pot for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalk. Plunge the blanched asparagus into an ice bath to stop the cooking process. Pat them dry and store in an airtight container for up to six months. When you are ready to use them in a recipe, do not thaw them out first.
When cooking fresh asparagus, wash the stalks thoroughly. Chop 1-2 inches off the bottom of the stalk to remove the dried out woody section. I prefer this method to peeling the outer layers from the bottom of the stalk. The rest can be cooked according to the recipe you have, but blanching asparagus really brightens its color to a gorgeous green.
Asparagus is an ideal dinner guest. It arrives on your table just when you think you can’t take another dull dinner of winter vegetables and discreetly leaves in the height of summer when you barely notice its absence from the recipes bursting with summer produce. Enjoy asparagus in these spring recipes.
Puff Pastry Wrapped Asparagus and Prosciutto
Ingredients:
12 asparagus stalks
2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed
6 thin slices of Prosciutto di Parma or ham
Egg wash:
1 egg
2 Tbsp. water, whisked together
Directions: Preheat oven to 375° F. Wash asparagus, peel skin of stalk if necessary. Cut each prosciutto slice into two thin strips. Cut each puff pastry sheet in half and then each half into three strips each. Wrap prosciutto around each asparagus leaving the asparagus top exposed. Wrap each puff pastry strip around each asparagus leaving the asparagus top exposed. Brush puff pastry with a little egg wash. Place asparagus on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake for 10-20 minutes until puff pastry is golden brown. Remove from oven and serve warm with red pepper coulis (recipe below).
Note: You can blanch the asparagus first to make the green color brighter. Do this by place the asparagus in boiling salted water for 30 seconds, and then immediately stopping the cooking process by placing the asparagus in ice water. Pat the stalks dry and proceed with the recipe above.
Red Pepper Coulis
Ingredients:
2 red peppers, roasted
1 garlic clove
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. Balsamic vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions: Remove blackened skin from red peppers. De-seed red peppers. Place peppers, oil, garlic, and, vinegar in a food processor and blend until form a sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. Can be served either warm or cold.
Butterfly Pasta Primavera
Serves 6
Ingredients:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup green onions, chopped finely
2 sweet red or yellow peppers, cored, trimmed & sliced thin
2 zucchini, peeled and sliced thin
2 carrots, peeled & chopped
6 asparagus stalks, chopped
1/4 cup fresh or frozen peas
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup vegetable broth
1 tsp. fresh basil, minced
1 tsp. fresh oregano, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 lb. butterfly (bowtie) pasta
1 tsp. Italian parsley, minced
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Directions: Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a 12-inch sauté pan. Add all vegetables to the sauté pan. Cook over medium heat for 7 minutes. Add wine and broth. Cook at high heat for 10-15 minutes to reduce sauce. Add basil, oregano, and half the parmesan cheese. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring a 12-quart pot of water to a boil. Add salt, then pasta and cook until al dente. Drain pasta and toss with sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and remaining cheese, and serve.
Spring Risotto
Serves 4
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
½ cup onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups uncooked Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups warm chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
½ lb. asparagus, blanch & cut up
1 cup frozen baby green peas
½ tablespoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon Italian parsley, minced
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Directions: In a pot of boiling water, blanch asparagus and peas, and set aside. Heat oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large sauté pan with sides. Add onions and cook until transparent. Add garlic and dry rice. Cook until rice is coated and begins to become fragrant about 2-3 minutes. Add wine,1/4 cup at a time, stirring until it evaporates. Slowly add 1/2 cup of warmed stock while stirring. Continually add stock in stages until it evaporates while constantly stirring rice for 23 minutes over medium heat. At the end of the cooking time, when risotto is al dente, stir in remaining butter, asparagus, peas, zest, salt and pepper. Add cheese and parsley, serve immediately.
