This week, spring launched its earnest neighborhood revitalization in Northeast Ohio. The singularly dull-gray palette of recent months washed away in a torrent of rain, as the battened down hatches of residential winter strongholds were opened to breaths of fresh air. Sun beamed through open windows, while warm breezes cosseted, and the long isolated soundtrack of vibrant communities – children laughing, music playing, motorcycles roaring – mingled with the perfume of fresh blooms and the chatter of avian vacationers. It would appear as though Colavito has – if for now – revoked his curse, with Cleveland's boys of summer swinging into first place, and playing fields big and small now verdant, the air brimming with the smell of cut grass. The only snowy patches on Lake Erie are white caps, as the waves roll across the North Coast and boaters take to the water. Spring is here – and summer is close behind. From a gastronomic perspective, it's a time of reward after a harsh winter, with a whole new menu to enjoy. Without the sour, the sweet wouldn't be so, as a hungry mind once surmised.
It's no coincidence that the greater Cleveland area is home to so many talented chefs. Few regions are blessed with such access to fresh products. The four seasons encourage chefs – the good ones, anyway – to rethink menus every few months. Mix equal parts choice ingredients, seasonal creativity and culinary aptitude, and you have a reasonably foolproof recipe for tasty dishes.
It works the same for people at home. When it's cold and dreary, nothing quite hits the spot like a hearty, deeply flavored stew or spicy chili. When the snow settles, my oven works overtime, and roasting is the order of the day: beautifully bronzed chicken, succulent filet de bouef, caramelized root vegetables. I crave the same roasted, warming effect in my beer, turning to stouts and porters; I seek brooding, earthy, leathery and spicy wines, such as the syrah-based bombs of the Northern Rhône and exquisite blends of the southern region, particularly Châteauneuf-du-Pape (both when budget allows). In the spirit world, nothing warms quite like the peat-laden massage of Islay single malts. My dram of choice is Laphroaig.
In the past week, the lids came off grills, the charcoal went in, and the intoxicating aroma and mouth-watering sizzle of food and open flame filtered through my neighborhood. It was exciting. Now, my sights are set on perfectly charred chicken with crispy skin, and slow-smoked ribs. I want most things served with a side of barbecue sauce – or bathed in it. I can be indulgent and supportive of local agriculture at the same time with medium-rare Ohio grass-fed beef burgers, cooked on my Weber grill, with a group of friends and a bucket of chilly pilsners (I'm fond of Victory Brewing's Prima Pils). A just-burnt all-beef dog with a liberal application of Stadium Mustard and a bit of diced onion is timeless. Try it with Buckeye Brewing Company's Hippie IPA. Asparagus is superb this time of year, and a few minutes on a hot grill transforms it into a savory bite even the most ardent carnivore would admire. Also green, kale and mustard greens make for excellent side possibilities. Even the first crops of corn are finding their way into stores such as Heinen's, though it's not quite the locally grown, wonderfully sweet stuff of July.
It's time to tone down some of the unctuousness, in favor of light, refreshing tastes. Alaskan halibut with pineapple salsa or a piquant panzanella fit that bill. Both benefit from the juicy tomatoes that will also start showing up in a couple months. Lighter fare begets a gentler, more summery wine, and rosé is a go-to (thanks to the influence of American Wine School founder and "At Cellar Door" host Marianne Frantz). There are great values to be found in this segment. Look for ones made with softer, less-tannic varietals, such as grenache, which deliver a pleasingly acidic punch characterized by ripe strawberries. Pop a couple bottles of sparking rosé (more great value in cava), and the fruity character is enlivened with a delightful creaminess – think Wimbledon strawberries and cream.
The arrival of spring also marks the opening of my neighborhood ice cream stand, Sandy's Frozen Whip. It's soft serve and manages to hit the spot when the mercury soars. Cocktails are nearly synonymous with warm-weather frivolity, so it's time again to relax with a dark and stormy, especially suited to the spring's flights of thunder. It's fun to make at home, but the version served at the Velvet Tango Room sets the bar. Owner Paulius Nasvytis' homemade ginger beer give it a deliberately biting backbone that kicks off any celebration worth having.
