Vacherin Mont d’Or
I will never forget my first time. It was beneath the sidewalks of Hudson and Harrison Street in NYC, in a dimly lit, dank and musty wine cellar. I remember her soft moan as my heart leapt and a curious man’s eyes opened with a strange surprise. The cheese that had all our toes curled was Vacherin Mont d’Or. This precious cow’s milk cheese hails from the Vaud region of Switzerland, nestled on the border of the Jura region of France. It is high up here in the mountains that cows spoiled with hay produce a sinfully dense, sweet milk that makes Vacherin Mont d’Or so satisfying. Available throughout the fall and winter, it peaks in late December through early February. The texture is soft and creamy and, when ripe, unctuous. The taste and smell of the slightly brine-washed rind reminds one that it is in fact the gift of an animal; its delicate "barnyardiness" coupled with sweet milk. Just when you think you’ve reached your climax, taste deeper. For those who crave an afterglow, Vacherin is wrapped in spruce leaves that give a delicate taste of pine. Vacherin alone is a dream.
However, if you invite one more to the party with a glass of Gevrey-Chambertin, you’ll find yourself in a state of ecstasy. Geographically, the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy is only a few hundred kilometers from the Vaud. It is rather dense for pinot noir, with plenty of qualities reminiscent of black cherry. What separates this village from others is an immense presence of terroir. Pinot noir that is this earthy and deep, yet sensual, is meant for Vacherin Mont d’Or.
Notes on Vacherin Mont D’Or:
Location: The Vallée de Joux and the Jura foothills in the Vaud, Switzerland. Milk: Thermalized cows . Age: 3-8 weeks. Producers: Estancia. Similar cheeses: There is no substitute. If in a bind, try Petit Sapin, Winnemere or Forsterkase.
Wine pairing: Gevrey Chambertin, Domaine Tortochot, vielles vignes, 2005. This also works with Oregon pinot noirs or even an off-dry chenin blanc from the Loire Valley.
Comté "Le Fort"
If ever I need a reminder of the stability of cheese, I lean on a great Comté. Despite it being France’s number one consumed cheese, it is often times mediocre at best. With such a varying level of quality there is one gentleman I can trust. His name is Marcel Petite. In the village of Pontarlier, Monsieur Petite bought an unused WWII munitions fort called St. Antoine from the French government. In 1966, he converted it into the perfect home for aging these large 70-90 pound wheels of cheese. Comté is a great example of a true affineur at work. Although it is cooperative-made, it is aged with Petite’s steady hand for around 22 months and that makes all the difference. Throughout this time the cheese develops the scent of a toasted hazelnut, but a bit richer. The flavors of scalded milk cradle the sweet fruity mid-palate and at its peak is reminiscent of cocoa. The texture is just firm enough to allow your teeth to slowly sink in and as the cheese dissolves, the aforementioned flavors rise. When aged long enough, pieces of tyrosine (amino acid/protein that becomes insoluble and crunchy) give the impression of stars bursting in your mouth. Extremely satisfying.
The nutty finish lends itself to a soft merlot. My favorite wine pairing is with a 2005 Château Lamothe, Première Côte de Bordeaux. Mostly merlot, it has a touch of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. The pairing is amazing. The fruit and softness from the merlot do not compete with the "snackable" nuttiness of the Comté. They dance together but there is an opposite attraction lying in the tannins of this Bordeaux and the fat of the cheese. It is fulfilling.
Notes on Comté “Le Fort”
Location: Village of Pontarlier in the Franche – Comté region of France. Milk: Raw Montbeliarde Cow’s milk. Age: 16-24 months. Producers: Cooperative produced but aged by Marcel Petite . Similar cheeses: Beaufort, Pleasant Ridge Reserve (extra aged), Appenzeller.
Wine pairing: Château Lamothe, Première Côte de Bordeaux, 2005. Also, try a fruity southern Rhône red or Washington state merlot, of which Andrew Will is a great producer.
All photos by Ken Mengay/Photographic Illustration
Queso de la Serena
This ancient, exotic, subtle wheel of fermented milk will make a lasting impression. It delivers on a cerebral level that makes a palate weak. The cheese queso de la Serena is from the town of Castuera in the Extremadura region of southwestern Spain. Made from the low-yielding Merino sheep’s milk (prized so much for their wool that exportation of the animal was a capital offense under the crown of Castile between the 13th - 18th century) it has a soft, cakey texture when young and a “scoopable” runny texture when ripe. On either end of the spectrum, it provides a flavor unlike many cheeses. It is sour, bitter and buttery, with a nutty undertone and a seemingly long finish. Pondering about this cheese is as much fun as eating it. There is an ambiguous vegetal flavor and aroma that is a result of thistle rennet- derived from the pistil of a lily that grows upon the cardoon. Because of a large Jewish population in western Spain and Portugal, traditional rennet (made from the stomach of a young animal) could not be mixed with dairy so this alternative was fortunately discovered hundreds of years ago and still in use today. La Serena’s beauty lies not only in its uniqueness but also its sophistication.
Given the flavors of this cheese, it is typically difficult to pair with a wine. The answer lies to the east, with sherry; and not just any, but an Amontillado. The right one should have a touch of sweetness and will really take you back.The buttery sour flavor is whisked away by the off dry nuttiness of this aged drink.The texture of the cheese somehow gently intertwines itself around the natural “tang" of the sherry. It all happens so fast, but finishes long with a buttery, toasted almond flavor that will likely require a break before going back for more.
Notes on Queso de la Serena
Location: Castuera, Extremadura region of Spain. Milk: Raw Merino sheep’s milk. Age: 2-3 months. Producer: El Porfiao. Similar cheeses: Amanteigado cardus, Nisa or Azeitaio.
Wine pairing: Sandeman “Character”, medium dry amontillado, Jerez, Spain, NV. Others to try, an oloroso or pedro ximenez sherry.
Blu del Moncenisio
Italy’s got it. They have a calm swagger in the way they go about life. It’s molto chic! Blue del Moncenisio effortlessly struts across the palate leaving an air of lust behind. The texture is typical of most bleus, semi-soft, but this is like satin. It has large pockets of penicillin that greet your nose with spice, but is not overly powerful on the palate, but rather cavernous and funky with a touch of fruit. There is a sensual character to it as well, much like Fourme D’Ambert. The firm finish yearns for the sweetness of overly ripe fruit or a sweet wine.
The wine pairing that matches the swagger is called SoAlto from southern Tuscany in the region of Maremma. A region more renowned for its Super Tuscans, wine maker Elisabetta Geppetti of Fattoria Le Pupille envisioned something different, the production of a botrytised wine. In 1990, the wine was born. This sweet, musty wine made from traminer, sauvignon blanc and semillon is Italy’s answer to sauternes, but with a touch more body and blossom flavor. It’s an easy love affair to explain. The shy but sweet, sea-swept musty wine from Tuscany meets the smooth, funky-styled cavernous cheese from Piedmont.
Notes on Blu Del Moncenisio
Location: Piedmont, Italy. Milk: Pasteurized cow’s milk. Age: 4 months. Producers: Cooperative - Guffanti . Similar cheeses: Fourme D’Ambert.
Wine: SolAlto, Fattoria Le Pupille, Maremma, Italy, 2004. Try also a sauternes or saussignac.
All cheeses available at L'Albatros Brassiere + Bar. Also, be sure to ask for these cheeses at your favorite cheese shop. From February 16 to March 6, Chrostowski is leading a special Wine 101 series of classes at L'Albatros. For more information on the series, click here.
