My unusually hectic travel schedule in June and July allowed me to take in World Cup matches from six cities in three countries on two continents. Granted, these countries, the U.S., Canada and the UK, are safely ensconced in the Anglophone world and share cultural affinities. Nevertheless, the diversity of settings and the temporary U.S.-England rivalry offered several unique insights and experiences.
Rather than regurgitating platitudes about the unifying power of sport or stressing the geopolitical significance of the first World Cup held on African soil, I’ll instead discuss a few highlights from my World Cup World Tour that are likely of interest to the NE Ohio sports fan. Perhaps some of us can relate to the Dutch who now own the opprobrious distinction of being the only country to have lost three World Cup finals.
June 11: Uruguay v. France (Toronto, Canada)
I took in this match at an outdoor café on College Street in the West End of Toronto, Canada. The café sat on the border of neighborhoods with high concentrations of soccer-mad Portuguese and Italians, so interest was high on the opening day of the World Cup. I quickly struck up a conversation with a table of Chinese-Canadians sitting next to me who were interested in the match less for the sport and more for the large sums they’d bet on a French victory. One banality worth mentioning is the ease with which one can interact with total strangers during World Cup matches.
The match, like many of the first round encounters, was dull and ended in a 0-0 draw. Surprising Uruguay would go on to an appearance in the semi-finals while the French, much to the delight of Irish fans around the world, would utterly implode and crash out of the competition while scoring only one goal in three matches.
June 12: England v. USA (Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada)
While touring southern Ontario wine country, my Canadian fiancée and I ducked into a “loyalist” pub in Niagara-on-the-Lake to watch this clash. The location vexed me somewhat, as I’ve yet to understand the pride Canadians take in having successfully resisted American attempts to annex their territory, and for the more immediate fact that the place was packed with English fans.
I was somewhat amused as a table of rather passionate English fans sitting behind me rose to their feet and belted out their national anthem. As the only American fan in the establishment, I meekly held my hand to my heart when the “Star Spangled Banner” played. I feared the worst as we quickly fell behind 1-0 in the fourth minute. I couldn’t believe our luck a half-hour later, when England goalie Robert Green bungled Clint “Deuce” Dempsey’s shot into the net just before half-time. I left the pub head held high as the U.S. had a couple of chances to steal a victory from the supposedly formidable English.
June 18: Slovenia v. USA (Cleveland, Ohio)
My fiancée and I watched this match at the Pub on Lee in Cleveland Heights. I was impressed to see the amount of interest from U.S. fans on a Friday morning. The place was full, and reportedly Parnell’s was packed to the rafters just a few doors down the street. Do people in the U.S. actually care about soccer?
The first half was dismal as the U.S. fell behind 2-0, but the tide turned in the second half with two sublime goals from Landon Donovan and Michael Bradley. Fans were elated when Maurice Edu apparently put the U.S. ahead after converting a Donovan free kick. Total confusion and disgust ensued as the goal was inexplicably disallowed by Malian referee Koman Coulibaly. Poor refereeing would be a recurrent theme throughout this World Cup, and would do much to test the patience of casual fans and diehards alike.
June 23: Slovenia v. England (Brighton, England)
This was the first match of note that I took in from Brighton on the south coast of England. As I walked from the train station to an English friend’s house in town, I was surprised to see empty streets in this beach town that’s normally packed with tourists during the summer. Schools and shops had closed early to ensure old and young would be free to watch match that would decide whether England would go through to the second round.
I was much more interested in the U.S.-Algeria match that was being played simultaneously, but it was simply not possible to convince friends or pub owners to switch away from the England match. As England nervously played out its 1-0 victory, I was massively relieved when the BBC cut over to show Donovan’s now famous injury-time goal that put the U.S. through as winners of Group C.
June 25: Portugal v. Brazil (Brighton, England)
The match itself was dismal, but memorable thanks to the enthusiasm and energy of the 50 or so Brazilian supporters that showed up to this chavvy beachside bar. Braziliand “surdo” drums provided the rhythms as the supporters sang and danced throughout the petulant, ultimately goalless encounter. The Portuguese contingent on the other side of the bar turned out to be part of an English stag party.
June 27: Germany v. England (Brighton, England)
I accompanied a few English friends to a pub jam-packed with enthusiastic English supporters. Expectations were sky-high, thanks to a tabloid-driven press that’s seemingly incapable of acknowledging the fundamental weaknesses of English tactics and systems of player development. Germany would dominate this encounter. The English fans, Cleveland-esque in their appetite for sports-related disappointment, accepted defeat graciously, and turned their attention to haranguing our side of the pub for not singing enthusiastically enough as the one-sided match drew to a close.
July 2: Netherlands v. Brazil (Oxford, England)
This was the first and only match that I’d watch in Oxford. The University bar was packed with Dutch supporters and surprisingly few Brazilians for what was sure to be a scintillating encounter. While the Dutch lacked the style and flair of the Brazilian supporters in Brighton, they certainly matched them in terms of passion. Tables of Dutchmen and women went wild as Wesley Schneider scored the shocking winner late in the second half.
Final Score
U.S. Verdict: Like an Englishman (or a Clevelander), I let unreasonable expectations get the better of me. The U.S. fielded by far its strongest attacking side that I’ve witnessed in my lifetime. Unfortunately, the likes of Dempsey and Donovan were forced to spend most of their time protecting our weak back four. While not necessarily a “Golden Generation,” I’m disappointed that Dempsey and Donovan are unlikely to have another opportunity to help the U.S. better its quarterfinal appearance of 2002. Hopefullly, Deuce’s budding rap career will take off.
Tournament highlight: The Dutch victory over Brazil in the quarterfinals. I, like many front-running soccer fans, have a major soft spot for the lore of Dutch “Total Football,” embodied by the World Cup finalists of ’74 and ’78 and the great Ajax side of 1995. While the 2010 squad was far from this high standard, I was hoping that the shock victory over perennial favorite Brazil would propel the Netherlands to their first and long overdue world title. A third finals appearance would end in bitter disappointment.
Tournament lowlight: Anything French. How far the French side has fallen since its finals appearance in 2006. One might argue that the ’06 side would have suffered a similar fate had Zidane not come out of retirement to reinvigorate a listless side that barely qualified for the tournament. The negative karma from Thierry Henry’s notorious handball against the Irish, a terrible coach in Raymond Domenech and the pre-tournament scandal of several star players sleeping with underage prostitutes, proved too much for this team to overcome.
Favorite venue: The Old Angle in Ohio City. With plenty of widescreen, high-definition TVs and a big screen, fans had no problem finding a good vantage point from which to watch any of the matches. A refreshing change from the packed pubs and bars of England, and the hostile venues in loyalist Canada.
